Rainbows remind us to persist even when its stormy.
This week in Nepal: We’re anticipating the monsoon rains and, while we do, the humidity has made things uncomfortable. Americans often argue to me that if “they,” i.e., the diverse peoples of the developing world, “worked harder, there wouldn’t be a need for the Peace Corps.” I disagree with the idea for many reasons, but foremost are my many observations that people in the developing world work damn hard.
Some countries, including large segments of the U.S., benefit from a temperate climate and abundant natural resources, along with functioning governments and (usually) an educated citizenry while other countries lack these advantages. As a result, significant obstacles thwart the productivity to which “we” are accustomed in the G7. I readily remembered that lesson as several obstacles impeded my return to school after another week of Kathmandu training and, I also remembered that rainbows only appear after we pass through the storms of life.
This week’s cheers: Like a student with new clothes on the first day of classes, I excitedly collected my tailor-made official teacher uniform and wore it to school on Sunday (school runs six days a week in Nepal, Sunday through Friday). The uniform represented a significant victory for me: I had purchased the cloth, brought the cloth to the tailor who, in turn, took my measurements, and the end result both satisfied and fit me. I met the challenge with determination and followed through to reach a successful end–call it a rainbow.
This week’s tears: By the time I had walked the eight minutes to school on Sunday, I had sweat through my new uniform shirt (as wet as if I had been caught in a monsoon rain). Upon arrival, my counterpart teacher exclaimed: “sir, you bleed!” I thought I needed to correct her English and explained that it was sweat, not blood. She pointed to my backside which, when I looked in the mirror, had several streaks–not specks–of blood.
During a night in Kathmandu, something took a bite out of my back and the rough, new uniform coupled with sweat irritated the wound enough for it to reopen as I walked down the hill. I left school to stop the bleeding and clean my new shirt. When I returned home, we were without power rendering simple tasks far more challenging here than in the U.S. I recalled the many times I’ve heard peiople in the developing world called lazy–it couldn’t be farther the truth. That morning, it was close to noon before I finally began work.
Student question of the week: “Of what caste are you, sir?” I explained there are no castes in America and the sixth-grade girl’s eyes widened. “No castes?” she asked again. “No, in America we believe all people are equal,” I explained (feeling slightly dishonest). Her shy friend whispered in her ear and the bold girl asked, “You can marry as you wish?” I explained we can, and that marriages are not arranged. If her eyes had widened any more her eyeballs would have fallen out. This conversation was nothing than a rainbow after a stormy morning.
Nepal legalized same-sex (rainbow) marriage at the end of April 2024 (just before my arrival), but its not commonly practiced here, so I made no mention of any non-hetero relationships. Along with Taiwan, Nepal is the only Asian jurisdiction to allow same-sex marriage.
The week ahead: After my first month in Nepal, I’m ready to settle in and establish a weekly routine that balances work, home, and recreation. When I look at the calendar, however, there’s an interruption next week. In fact, it’s not until December that I see a dedicated stretch of uninterrupted school time. There are more storms to weather and, surely, more rainbows to follow.
Rather than bemoan the calendar, as I bemoaned my stained shirt, the work before me is to do my best with what opportunities exist here, not with an eye to complete a long list of projects; rather, to help my counterparts do a little better in their daily tasks. There’s also lots of questions to answer, like those of castes and marriage. I’ll do well to remember that rainbows appear only after we’ve survived the coming monsoon.
The Peace Corps is heavily recruiting for the next group of two-year volunteers in Nepal. If you know someone whom you think is up to the challenge, have them look out the recruiting page for more information. Applications are due July 1 for a January departure.
Lastly, for those of you who recognize the month of Pride, may your June be abundantly filled with rainbows. Peace.
